Piz Roseg NO Wall

Two pickl and a gfiariga snow – Juchee!” … des halt a guate idea!” In the lines you’re reading right now, almost everything is stolen. The title was cheekily copied and adapted, originally from the wonderful German songs. And also the idea that we are talking about in this case does not come from me, but from the Holger. But you can turn a blind eye to a fantastic weekend in the Bernina Group, where again nothing has been lied about. A few weeks ago, Holger was already on the road with Markus to climb the Grossglockner on one of his most impressive lines, the Pallavicini Rinne. Many people would probably have had enough of the steep ice for a long time after this ”drone”. But not the admirably motivated Holger, who came around the corner with the next idea: Piz Roseg Northeast Wall – a classic 600 meter ice and now rock face in the Engadine, which is mainly an accident site of the famous steep-wall skier Heini Holzer sadly gained fame. But we were glad that we didn’t have the skis on our backpackwhen we left at the Tschierva Hut at 1:30 in the morning on the longest day of the year. So we stumbled the first three hours of our ascent in the dark over the very fissile Tschierva glacier up to the foot of the imposing wall. With its almost 60 degrees steep ice, partly covered with rocks, this part was now in front of us and waited for us to try on it. Flott we were able to leave the first third in the best tread-firn on the short rope behind us and stood in front of the key point, the ”RockBar”. With occasional sparks flying in the interplay of rock, crampons and ice picks, we swayed cautiously over the tricky passages, after which ”only” separated us from the striking summit of the Roseg with almost bare ice 300 metres of altitude. With slowly dwindling forces and admittedly burning waddles, we finally happily reached the ”Snowcup” at over 3900 meters. With cold drinks and crooked southern fruits, we enjoyed the fantastic view of the surrounding mountains around the famous Biancograt and Piz Palü before we started the descent over the donkey ridge. Congratulations at this point again to the Holger, who proved himself really excellent in this challenging tour. So I would declare the high-speed season as heralded. If you too dream of such or even more comfortable destinations: get in touch and we will be happy to accompany you on your adventures!