Selbhorn

Old and new – The Selbhorn – The Selbhorn, venerable summit in the Steinernen Meer in Saalfelden, has been the subject of a controversial discussion between “sanierer” and “keeper” of alpine climbing routes in recent weeks and months. In the Berchtesgaden Alpine Alpine Guide, the “southwest face – via ferrata” is better known as Herzogsteig as follows:”Extremely difficult alpine ascent that leads as a “climbing path” through the SW wall of the Selbhorn. The term via ferrata is somewhat misleading, because the path does not have a continuous steel rope lock. It is a path in which one has to cope with places up to the 3rd degree “climbing” – without a continuous safety rope – heavy places are insured with wire ropes or facilitated by stepping aids or ladders”. Wolfgang Roidl and the Bergfürher Zell am See in the “new” Herzogsteig. The original passageway of the Selbhorn was built in 1907, in the following years also stepping aids and the steel rope in the wedge promenade were added. Later, mountain guides placed drill hooks at neuralgic points to better secure their guests. From this historical point of view, the “new” Herzogsteig is not a newly built via ferrata, but rather a refurbishment of a long-standing path. The lines are very similar to the old, traditional one, as you can see at the numerous color dots and stonemen. Only in a few places the line has been changed, these passages lead over only good rock and are enjoyable to climb. In the light terrain, the SW wall is crossed by some bands, the static ropes installed there are mainly for orientation and not necessarily for securing. If the conditions, skills and stable weather are appropriate, the Herzogsteig is despite or precisely because of the a rewarding and absolutely recommendable Bergtour.An this place a heartfelt thank you to the Alpine School Markus Hirnböck and his team for the smooth renovation! Mountain guide Zell am See – Kaprun am Selbhorn